A Welsh Adventure

By A.M. Barber

It started off as possibly Ireland then maybe France but then soon narrowed down to going to Scotland. After a serious amount of research in to prices and location we couldn’t agree so the few of us that were committed decided to go for Wales instead. What a headache planning a trip is, nobody can agree where to go and what to do.

Wales it was! I was left to do the booking and planning. Having spent a lot of time visiting Wales before I felt fairly comfortable as to where to head to.  Date: early June 2010 (out of school hols)

The bikes:

My Yamaha Fazer  1000(black), Geoff’s Yamaha Fazer 1000(blue) and Richard’s Yamaha XJR1300. Not a Yamaha club , just in case you wondered. I actually consider myself more of a Honda man albeit I’ve now since moved to a Triumph and sold the Fazer.??

Preparation:

Bought a Garmin Zumo 550 and keen to try it out on this trip. Spent  ages preparing routes on MapSource for all the best biking roads linking them in to daily routes.

Decided to use a Givi Maxia top box and a Bagster tank bag. I had to fit a Givi rack which cost about £60 and a new ram mount for the Garmin.  Gave the bike a good checking over and that’s it. It turned out that we all chose to take a top box with either tank bags or tail packs.

Day 1:  All met up at Ower,McDonalds at  around 9:00am. Richard took the lead and headed off to the M4, across the Severn Bridge not stopping until we got in to Wales and a welcome break at the Abergavenny Café. A bikers café hang out where we got chatting to a local biker and said we were off to MACK -IN -LETH, “no such place in Wales”, he replied. I don’t think we quite got the pronunciation right. 

Refreshed after a greasy burger and fizzy drink we pressed on to Machynlleth, in the Dyfi Valley. It didn’t seem that far on the SATNAV but seemed to take forever to get there. The last 20 miles or so approaching Machynlleth were great as the scenery and roads just changed dramatically. The signs for Machynlleth were a welcome sight though.

Found the Hotel  (White Horse Hotel) with no problem, it had a rear off street car park albeit not very secure . It’s the far left building in the photo.

We had one problem though, Geoff’s legs had gone that stiff he couldn’t get his leg over his tail pack . Richard and I had to physically extract him from the bike!

We grouped the bikes together in a secluded corner and locked all three wheels together with a chain. Hotel on first impressions came across a little old/rundown  and the rooms were somewhat basic. I don’t think the place had been done up in years.

 After a good rest we mustered up enough enthusiasm and went over to Barmouth for dinner, pretty good scenic ride actually.  On the return I put the Garmin back on its mount and the screen froze and power cycling it wouldn’t clear it. Ahh! Useless piece of XXit!  All our routes were on this thing and the time I spent preparing them! . Fortunately I did print out most of the routes so we had something to guide us.

An evening in the hotel bar made it quite clear it was popular with the locals and actually quite a friendly place. Some real characters in this pub!      Price/night~£35 for a single

Day 2: Great breakfast and ready to discover.  What a day! ….the morning weather was mostly dry but pissing down by midday..never stopped for the rest of the day. A fantastic opportunity to test out the quality of our wet weather gear and wet riding ability. My cheapo textile jacket held out remarkable well but JTS trousers gave out, Geoff’s trousers and Jacket also gave out but Richard who had over trousers was dry as a bone.. 

In the morning we headed out to Tal-Y-Bont turning up to the Nan Y Mock reservoir. Very interesting route this as it pretty much becomes a goat track before finally getting to the reservoir…well worth it though.

Road takes you over the dam wall and then heads down to Ponterwyd and then Devils Bridge. Had a look around at Devils Bridge and then off to Aberystwyth front for lunch and plan the rest of the day. Barely getting time for lunch it started pissing it down, big style !  Headed out north taking detour via Borth back thru Machynleth on towards Aberdovey and up to Brycrug. Turned on to B4405 to Tal-y-lyn lake…excellent road with some lovely bends. Come back through Corris to Machynlleth. The rain persisted down and  was that bad that we spent the rest of day in the hotel bar drying out.

Day 3: After checking out of the Hotel we set off for Llandudno or “klan-dud-no” for those that can pronounce it.This proved to be quite a scenic ride passing through Dolgellau, by Trawsfyndd  Reservoir and the slate mine areas of Blaenau Ffestiniog.

Found the Hotel  (Lansdowne Hotel) on a quiet back street just a stones throw from the pier. Hotel had a secluded parking area which was great for bikes. At first I’m not sure the owner was sure what she was letting in as the hotel was absolutely immaculate. Needless to say she warmed to us and this hotel turned out to be a real find and recommend anybody to go there. It was listed as 3star but felt at least 4star. We’d really fell on our feet here as it was only £35/night.

Bikes safely stowed we got some fresh air on the pier and then found a good restaurant.  All knackered  we  retired for an entertaining evening in the hotels lounge complete with huge flatscreen TV and well stocked bar. Not sure why but nobody else in the hotel  joined us in the lounge that night, maybe it was Richard’s choice of programme. He did find some odd ones browsing the channels that evening.

Day 4: Fairly early start and out round the Gt. Orme, up to the top to take in the fantastic views and a snack in the cafe, back down, round and out passing by Conway castle. The Orme has spectacular views especially on a clear day and the weather was great today.

Just past the castle we turned down the B5106 to Betwsycoed. This turned out to be a great little road which allowed us to follow a river all the way down to Betwsycoed.

Stopped for a break and a short walk watching folk play in the river.  In the car park some poor chap on a bike suddenly hit the deck with a crash. It turned out he was on a test ride and slammed on the front brake too hastily. He was OK but the bike’s mirror copped for a bit of damage.

From Betwsycoed  we moved onward to Llangollen turning left and stopping off at the Motorcycle museum.

The entrance to the motorcycle museum, doesn’t look very inviting. We nearly didn’t go in but it was actually worth it some really interesting stuff in there.

Over the horse shoe pass stopping off at the Ponderosa Café for something to eat.  There’s a strange little duck pond here set up as some sort of memorial. Well known amongst bikers and there were quite a few having a break here.

One mature biker looking quite experienced was scratching his head failing to get his bike started until Richard pointed out his kill switch was off. Always amazes me how many times this catches people out.

Weather was now glorious!

Coming back via Denbigh to Abergele and stopping at Colwyn Bay.……some fantastic roads.  At Colwyn Bay people were sun bathing it was that hot on the promenade front, ended up chatting to a couple from Chester out for a day on a FJR1300.

After plenty of sun it was back to Llandudno.

Out that evening to explore the Isle of Anglesey. Over the beautiful Menai Bridge and taking all the back roads looking for fish’n chips. Richard got us well lost for a while, even ended up chasing a flock of sheep down the road at one point, right past the local bobby as well!

Eventually popped out somewhere on a main road and we ended up asking locals where to get fish’n chips. When we found a Chippy it was shut so had to go to plan B and we found a pub that served some and guess what, the owner turned out to be a Pan Rider. Needless to say he ended up telling us tales about his touring adventures.

The light was starting to fade so we made it a quick ride back..very quick as I remember. More drinks in hotel bar with the lounge to ourselves again and open bar on a trust basis. They trust you’ll pay for what you drink!

Day 5: First step heading homewards ..Llandudno to South Wales,Tenby.

Rode down to Caernarvon Castle and right around it but didn’t stop since we had a lot of distance to do today. Onwards going through the Llanberis Pass, a must for all bikers.

The ride down to St Clears near Tenby was a long one and some good twisty roads at times, the weather was great so we made good headway.

Stayed at the Savoy Country Inn which looked great on the photo and the name gave the impression it was going to be a great place, sadly not the case.  Our first impression as we pulled in wasn’t good as the car park was lacking tarmac just loose stones everywhere…..crap.  Rooms were basic but clean.  Doesn’t make my recommended list I’m afraid.

That evening went in to Tenby for Fish’n Chips. Parking was tricky..got confused where to go and took a few liberties with the bikes through pedestrian areas.

Ended up sitting in at a Fish’n Chippy.  Had a walk around and found a good bench overlooking the harbour, perfect for chilling out on watching the world go by.

Back to the Savoy for a few beers but it was just a few because we soon got told we had to go to bed as pub closing and they had to lock the access to the bar area!

Day 6: Thought we’d check out Pendine Sands  the notorious racing flats, sadly the tide was in.

Back tracked and moved on towards Pembroke docks and over the toll bridge. I was amazed that they made us stop and pay and hold up the traffic whilst we fumbled for money.

Heading west stopping in to Solva for lunch. Really quaint place very photogenic and scenic. Looks a  great place for coastal walks but not in bike gear. Nice little café here where we had a spot of lunch. Just leaving Solva going up the hill we noticed a slip road and we were able to take the bikes right down to the small quay shown in photo.

Headed  further up the coast to St Davids. Carried on North along coast road stopping in at Fishguard harbour.

Continuing on passed cardigan to New Quay where we called in.

Coming back basically just heading south through all B roads. Some excellent roads but missed turn off to St.Clears and ended up coming back via Camarthen.

All feeling a bit knackered decided to take up on the 2 for 1 meal deal in the Motel.  For the price of two we got four meals..great,  to be honest the extra meal was unnecessary although Richard made light work of it.

Day 7:

Weather: fine

Heading  home. I was feeling quite ready for coming home now but not looking forward to the miles.

Over the Severn Bridge again back in to England along the M4 but came off at Bath and routed back to Southampton on the A roads.

Winding Up

Bikes coped beautifully with no problems albeit a bit blustery on the motorway, didn’t notice any handling problems with topbox. Fazer’s proved really good on fuel getting a good 200miles/tank.

1st hotel The White Horse 2/5   …maybe give it 3stars as it was friendly.

 2^nd hotel  Lansdowne Hotel ….fanatastic  5/5. Nothing more to say.

 3^rd The Savoy Country Inn  1/5 . Need to be desperate to stay here.

Stick to Mid/North Wales for best biking roads, I reckon the Tenby area is really for family holidays.

Out of school hols made the traffic a lot easier and there was a real absence of police, didn’t really see any.

Got my Garmin working again by removing battery which needed a special small allen key to uncouple it. It has failed in the same way on a few occasions since…I do like the Garmin but disappointed with its reliability.